Some lovely places are very much off the beaten path. Yesterday I set off from Thornbury at 12.30 and by 1.10 I was at this amazing hill top village 9 miles from Chepstow. Treleck (town of the stones) is on high ground with a massive early medieval church well worth a visit as it has some exhibits inside. However before getting to the village one finds the Harold Stones which are reported to have been erected to commerorate the victory of Harold Godwinsons army over the Welsh in 1036. However they are actually bronze age - and simply amazing in their little field off the road. I then drove to Monmouth - where there are some good shops although the Hawkshead is now closing down. A road out of Monmouth took me towards Rockfield and then I headed towards Llantillio Crosseny. However I took a turning off towards Newcastle (!) with the black mountains in the distance. At Llangattock Vibon Avel I saw a sign for the ancient church of St Cadoc. There were some lovely views of the blackmountains as I walked down a very long path to the church where five members of the Rolls family are buried (or Rolls Royce fame).
The road followed round to the main Skenfrith road - I then took a turning off and saw a large white castle in the distance but with only a footpath sign - now Cadw or national trust info - completely off the beaten track. I didn't stop but wish I did as it was clearly medieval and obviously not visited very often.
My next stop was at the very ancient church of St Teilo which is one of those places that are very dark and with a very heavy historic atmosphere. The church is situated amongst some half derelict 18th cent stables belonging to a house demolished in 1922. The church is mostly medieval but the crossing which is very dark and very low has a very ancient tangible atmosphere to it. History and the present feel very close here especially as outside there are rows upon rows of 18th century graves all around. There are some medieval doors leading to places that have gone and there is a green man (pagan) with a lolling tongue. The link between paganism and Christianity was a strong one in early medieval days - and one which would shock some people in the church today and to be fair some anti - church pagans too. The theological link between nature and Christianity was very close and sadly lost to today. It was one of those places where I felt like a modern ghost (ghost of christmas present!!!!) haunting the place instead of the other way around.
I then drove towards Monmouth and saw a sign for Llanfeanor. This wasn't in my buildings of Wales but I gave it a go. The road was very narrow and led through hills and valleys for several miles with the black mountains in the distance. At the end was a very small hamlet of four cottages and St Beunos church. The church was a Victorian rebuild but the dedication is that of St Beuno who came over from Ireland in the 6th century and founded a church at Clynog fawr which I visited nearly twenty four years ago!! A lady came out of a cottage and asked if she could be nosy and asked what I was up to. I explained my interest in architecture. She said they very rarely had visitors at Llanfeanor as it was so isolated hence her questions. She left convinced when I guessed the age of the church correctly (1860) however she did say someone had pinched part of the parish pump parts of which were left. I passed several 16th century looking houses on the way back.
My last stop of the day was at a lonely church not far away at Llanfihangel Ystern Llewern with a small timber bellcote and over looking a wooded valley.
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