Five years ago Lee and I had a day out cycling along the tow path from Tiverton to the end of the unfinished Tiverton Taunton canal. ' How about we cycle from Bristol to Tiverton one day' I suggested not thinking for a minute that we could actually do it one day! However we thought about it and had the idea that it was just about do-able!
After a couple of years pouring over maps we decided this year was the year. Previously we have done the Thornbury - Aberystwyth challenge and the Dartmoor challenge - this year was going to be the Tiverton challenge.
We had hoped to set off earlier in August but unfortunately I had severe tooth pain/ abcess so I had to grab the next available date. So on the 4th August I set off for Tiverton after putting on my handle grips I put the bike in the back of the car and set off for Lee's house with some very dark clouds and rain hitting the car. We spent a couple of hours planning in the whitelion - my favourite pub next to the bridge in Tiverton.
Next day at 7 we set off for Lee's mums house at Whitchurch and arrived at 8.30 - and it was then that the reality of 'the challenge' started. Our start was initially difficult cycling out of Bristol on the Wells road out of the city and towards Norton Malreward. I half expected to end up looking like the imprint of HGV lorry. My legs were beginning to ache even here - but had some lucusade and managed to find some strength to zip past the norman church down on to the Chewstoke road where we had our first photo stop. We passed through the small winding village of ChewStoke and then past the lakes which looked lovely.
We were heading for West Harptree or so we thought as we saw the lead medieval spire peep out in the distance. There were cycle route signs pointing in three directions and we headed off towards the village only to find that we should have gone in the other direction - even though my sense of dirction was telling me something different. Lucky we didn't take my normal route as it would have added miles on to the route.
The next section was very cruel as we headed up a massive hill on to the Mendips. It was like Everest but not so tame. The climb was virtually vertical and the sweat was pouring into my eyes. The views over to the Bristol channel mya have been lovely but I too exhausted to notice. My main source of inspiration was singing which ranged from the grand old duke of york to tipperary.
As I reached the summit Lee was at the top looking as thought he had simply breezed up the hill - think I must be getting old and unfit! We hit the road across the rollercoaster hill top mendip country and past the open lead mines until we reached Priddy. It seemed odd how I seemed to know all the pubs on Mendip although Lee questioend my sense of direction on several occasions - and just as well or we would have taken a longer route. However passing Priddy Pool we had our sandwiches and lucozade before setting off again.
The road fell down towards ebbor gorge - where I have been with Holly and Vicky on many occasions. Lee sailed on down enjoying the views over to Glastonbury and beyond - for me it seemed to hail the journey proper. We didn't join the witches at Wookey Hole (although a broomstick would have done us some good!) and we hit Wells at about Midday. The place was bursting full! W of people. We walked up the main street and through by the cathedral and by the Bishops palace where we bought pasties (but didn't share them with the ducks! ) and replensished our Lucozade levels and enjoyed sitting in the sun.
However we couldn't sit around all day we had to hit the road again. This time a bit of disused railway line leading to Dullcote and then a tiny roman road leading from there to Glastonbury with some very deep Rymes on either side - nice and peacful although my mobile phone kept ringing!
We could see the mystical sight of Glastonbury in the distance but unlike the mystical warlocks and witches who read The Guardian (and who all seem to hail from London - you are more likely to hear estuary english here than any hocus pocus) we decided to take the ring road around the town and head for Street. However the mysical sight of Glastonbury from that long straight narrow road will stay with me. I'm not sure what to believe about some of the legends about this place and the various characters who emerge (usually psychotherapists!) saying that they are re-incarnations of Arthur. However the whole place was under water (hence why there are no medieval churches on low lying land - current ones are Victorian) and the old belief that it will come under water again actually seems quite plausable. Blakes imagery in 'and did those feet' are wonderful ideas even if they are only legends in much the same way as the Santiago Compestella was for the medieval pilgrim. We can ruin it by looking at it logically and knowing that of course it would have been very unlikely a first century person from the middle east would land up in Glastonbury - but to do so spoils the idea and the romance. Maybe even if it isn't true we need the romance of the idea!! However there is something quite sygnifcant about the place and cycling along the straight narrow raod brough tthat to mind.
At street we cycled into the street and we met modern romance of a different kind namely that of the long suffering husbands and their credit cards. One can't imagine Joseph of Arimathea popping into Clerks village with his credit card taking a bashing from the wife. Yet there seemed dozens of families enjoying the great bargain hunt - and I must admit I did feel an urge to go and look at the M and S shop. We found some drinks in Boot and refuelled whilst the modern pilgrims engaged in their modern visa magic. Having said that - if there had been a record shop I would have downed my bike and come under the spell too!
It all seemed in stark contrast to the mystical relatively little known small road we travelled in on. That seemed to sum up camelot of old. One really can't imagine King 'Arfer' at Street screaming at his kids to 'watch that icecream' or lady quinivere going off to the next retail shop to buy a knocked down Gucci bag. Perhaps he could have got a knocked down round table from the Street Habitat shop but I doubt the gallant band of removal men would have been a match for the camelot of old.
Anyway we decided to move on and headed off down towards sedgemoor - deviating from the set route. We decided to follow the flat route heading for the start of the Bridgewater Taunton Canal. This area of course is famous for the 1685 battle of sedgemoor - and a peep into Westonzoyland church will find carved names of the prisoners captured and held in there and then given grizzly horrible deaths. 700 people were hung in woods not far from here. And as we cycled past something was clearly suffering on my rear end - namely my saddle. However the road was long and the rymes seemed to stretch on for ever. The area does still retain a sad atmosphere - like all fen land. On higher ground were the medieval somereset church towers and monuments - and eventually we passed Burrow Mump - Lee was well ahead of me by this time.
Burrow Mump (See earlier blog entry) has a church on a small hill - in everyway as atmospheric as Glastonbury but less known.
Our canal started after west ling and we hoped on to this pleasant peice of waterway which wound its way towards Taunton. I had started to think we were nearing destination (mistakenly) although I did see Wellington Monument in the distance.
As we headed towards Taunton I began to experience real agonising pain and was scared that I would have to finish the journey and would become known as Mr Two Thirds - in much the same way as Lee did after our Lampeter crawl. It was agony and I think if Lee hadn't have had foresight to put all his Allan Keys in his rucksack then it would have been the train for me. For some reason the saddly had been pointing into my leg right next to a very sensitive nerve.
The Taunton challenged the combined map reading skills of Neil and Lee and we hit the place on rush hour.
Somehow we managed to find our way out of the town and through to Bishops Hull were some ambigious signage led us to take another wrong turn. I think we had pschologically reached our home ground although in fact we had quite some way to go! We headed back towards the medieval octagonal tower of Bishops Hill church and headed downwards to wards some narrow lanes which went on and on - and on! Whoever had devised this route had cruelly left the steeper climbs till now and some ambigous signage again including once instance when Lee had to get off his bike and break some hedge to see it. We headed off with the sun lowering in the sky and the sound of church bells pealing at one distant and lonely church. I had to have some chocolagte and proceeded to eat a massive bar of chocolate whilst I was eating!
There were alot of negelcted cottages on route and some very isoalted places. Both of us were starting to feel exhausted although lee stopped to have his photo next to Frog lane (Lee is known as Kermit) in one village.
Just as I was about to give up and had sung my whole routine of songs we found the start fo the Tiverton canal covered in dark trees. From Taunton I had mentioned about wanting to have a nice long cool Fosters beer - and had dreamt of it for some time after our last lucusade bottle disapeared (Which Lee kindly shared with me). The pace really picked up as we headed for the pub at Sampford Peverill - infact quite speedy although one lone runner seemed to be putting us to shame as we couldn't catch him up.
At Sampford Peverill we stopped at the pub and I went in for the drinks. The barman and some of the blokes at the bar were qutie amused ' bloody 'ell' they said 'you must be fit!' Well not quite.
I sank my pint very quickly as I was very busy but was distressed to find somehow my lamp batteries had been used and it was one of those moonless nights.
I had to follow Lee for the last few miles in the dark occasionally running into bats and risking falling in the water and getting nabbed by a policeman on the other end.
We reached Lee's home by 11 where we took some photos and even though lee was exhausted very kindly made some tea which we finished at 10 minutes to midnight.
All in all a fantastic adventure - wonder where the new challenge will be. We seem to think it will be finishing the rest of this national track in the other direction.